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linear1 forums  |  Case mod questions  |  Case modding  |  Topic: Case-Mod gone bad... « previous next »
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NOS---
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« on: April 15, 2006, 05:46:47 PM »

HELLO!

Well I decided to jump into case modding after seeing what other people did, and thought up ideas of my own mod...

this is how it began, I found this old Mid-Tower, and it was BAD, so I wanted to do a few things; first I cut 120MM fan holes front and back, and then 2Nd part would be painting.

Well the 2Nd part didnt go so hot, I was wondering if you guru's could come to my rescue....

I used Rustolem Specilty Black Laqour(I think that is how it is spelled)

this is what i did:

First, I sanded the original paint with 320Grit, cleaned it, primed it with 2 coats.
secoend: I sanded the Primer with 400Grit(i know, bad idea) and then painted 2 coats.
Last: I sanded with 1500grit and Clear coated per instructions on can...

I have attached some pics:








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Grump
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« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2006, 02:43:36 PM »

Well, short answer is: How To Paint Your Computer Case Part 1 and How To Paint Your Computer Case Part 2

You should not try to go directly from coarse grit paper to extremely fine grit paper. Go in increments. I haven't found it necessary to use anything coarser than 400. Then I go to 800, 1000 and finally 1500. Your steps weren't very clear, so I don't know if you used a compatible primer paint. Sanding the primer with 400 could very well take off what you put on, at least in places. You didn't say if you used a sanding block or just your hand. Hand sanding can become uneven, which will also give your paint an uneven finish. Two color coats may not have given you even coverage, even if you sanded properly. I have found several light coats and then an almost wet coat works best for me. Wet sand out any orange peel or flaws before applying several light coats of clear.

You couldn't do much better than to follow linear's (Rob) painting guides. It's not too late to start over.

Grump
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NOS---
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« Reply #2 on: August 09, 2006, 01:02:37 AM »



Well, I went in and Re-Did the side panel.

I got a Question. How in the world do you spary so evenly? I get these spots where i srayed too much or to little.

Since i have posted i have also modded. a OLD AT Computer case.

Work-Log http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/95859-project-20-tony-stewart.html[here.]



Into This.


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Grump
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« Reply #3 on: August 13, 2006, 12:49:02 AM »

I got a Question. How in the world do you spary so evenly? I get these spots where i srayed too much or to little.
Sorry for the long delay in responding. I keep the spray can 6 inches or so away from the surface to be painted and press my finger down on the spray nozzle fully. The beginning of the spraying should start just off the object and also stop just past the object. I do light passes, not worrying about full coverage for the first 2 or 3 coats. Then the final couple of coats I move a little slower, pushing the wet line from the near edge to the far edge, but not so slow I create a run (solid color runs can be sanded out though).

It takes some practice and I will not say that I have become a pro at it. Rob has perfected the high gloss look and I only wish mine could be as spectacular. However, you can obtain a very nice look with patience and some skilled wet sanding to get an almost translucent finish. Those that have depth look the best to me.

R'gards,

Grump
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GreyDeath
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« Reply #4 on: October 28, 2006, 10:01:13 PM »

With Spray cans or In this case Rattle Cans the way that the paint is released from the can is considered a dirty Shot, meaning once the nozzle is pressed there is no simple way of controlling the paint once it leaves the can

But there are a couple of things you can do to help improve the paint and the paint flow from the can

taken from (Grump 's ) post , keep in mind a few things when painting large area's,
the most common problems  people encounter when painting is heavy and light miss-applications  to help counter this you need to take into account how you are painting and correct your natural movements with your arms and spray nozzle

when painting apply a few light coats of paint meaning misting of the paint onto the surface, this will give the wet coats later on something to grab hold of
secondly also put down a few practice shots on some disposable material before you shoot your case with the paint, that way you can develope the feel of the paint
the best way i have found of laying paint on large area's is the following application methods
first with pannels i support them on a riser so that i can paint all surfaces evenly, also it helps to lay it at about a 60degree slant
then i Start with the preparations of the paint prior to spraying the piece being painted
(when i spoke earlier of controlling the paint as it leaves the can) this is what i mean by that
Most people when they get paint , they shake it up and start spraying, what i have found from working with an airbrush or rattlecan or HVLP guns is that preping the paint prior to laying it is just as important as the actual finnish of the paint
So with that said and in Knowwing we are speaking of rattlecans, here is a simple Tip that can help make it easier for you to paint and apply an easy to attain finnish
get an old pot or pan atleast 2-3 inches deep
fill it up with Hot Water, NOT BOILING Just Hot out of the tap is Fine, Shake the cans of paint and then with the cap still on it tip it upside Down and place it in the pot of water for 2-3 minutes
then take the can Out and shake it a few More times
then put it right side up in the pan of water again and let the can warm up
what you are doing is simply heating Up the paint and the propellant which will help produce a finer misting when painting ....Meaning the spattering of paint from the can will be a finer spattering and will help if the FLASH dry time and the Less amount of Moisture Picked up from the can to the Surface that is being painted

When painting the Piece remember not to start or Stop inb the Middle of the Piece, that leads to uneven paint Spots
instead start pressing the nozzle before you get to the Piece and ending after you pass the piece
and Most inportantly, DontARCH your Arm as your Painting, Meaning When you move your arm ....your Natural body movement will make your arm get closer to the piece being painted at the center of the piece and further away at the beggining and the end of the piece

That is what you want to avoid
instead keep your can of paint from the surface the same or close to it with each pass and overlap each spray line by about 1/2 inch at most
when you have an even coat let it dry for 10-15 minutes
then turn your pannel 1/2 turn and do the same spay patter again

this is a customers case that i did for One of My guys







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